Le Ferme d’Hotte is re-staking a claim as the original bubbly of the Aube. They are one of only a handful of producers now making apple cider here in the Pays d'Othe – a forested region of the Aube that has made cider since the Middle Ages. Just 40 miles north of Chablis, and on the same flint-rich clay over Kimmeridgian limestone bedrock, this site isn’t simply known for its fantastically-valued Champagnes. Cider is making a come-back, and looking to oust Normandy and Brittany as the once and future king of the cider strongholds in France. 

Théo is the fifth generation farmer of the Hotte family, following in the footsteps of his father into the cider business. In the aftermath of World War Two, the family lands saw ancient orchards replaced by grain fields, and it has only been over the past three decades that local cider varieties have been re-planted and tended on family land. Apple trees like Avrolles, Locard, Nez Plat, Chatagnier Bondon, Petit Jaune, Jolibois, Sebin, Vérolot, and many others now thrive again on this land – just as they had for hundreds of years. This Grand Cidre – made with a second fermentation in bottle a la Champagne – is named Boemius, after a local figure who lived in these forests long ago. The apples are picked and then crushed within two hours of harvest, and see no additions of yeast, nutrients, or sulfur at any point in their life. The cider spends a full two years in bottle on the lees before it is released, and while I can honestly say I have no bearing when it comes to aging ciders – proprietor Théo Hotte assures that they can age and develop in bottle for up to a decade! 

In the here and now, this is clean and crisp, with an appropriate level of wildness for an organic, non-interventionist cider producer. The mouthfeel is weighty and smooth, with a nice sweetness that is balanced deftly by bright, apple-y acidity. Apples of all shapes and sizes come to mind, naturally, but also a black radish like spiciness, with a balancing clover honey sweetness, and a dried fruit leather unctuousness. Spices like nutmeg and cinnamon, too, with a tart kiss of cranberry relish, and earthy notes of mushroom tea and dried hay on the finish. Delightfully funky, without being overly so, this is a trip… and a quite fine cider to sip at all occasions!

Get a few bottles and let me know what you think! I'm excited for you all to add this collectible cider to your cellars… I just know you won’t be disappointed.