Champagne Marteaux Guillaume Blanc de Blancs Le Météque Extra Brut NV

We’ve made it no secret that we are enormous fans of Champagne Marteaux Guillaume, and it’s thrilling to see his efforts rewarded here with an incredible 97-point score. Guillaume works all of his vineyards following the strictest of organic and biodynamic methods, following the lead of the seasons and the moon, and speaking of his vines as though they are people… his friends, really. If they’re stressed or overworked, he offers them hand-crafted natural elixirs to heal. He listens to and observes them with painstaking precision in order to understand the best time for harvest.

He has an apothecary, where he stores foraged roots, dried herbs, and minerals to be turned into tinctures for the individual needs of his vines, rather than applying commonplace chemical treatments that other producers might employ to stave off infection or insects. He even custom-built a case to house his precious compost tea and cow horns to eventually be ritualistically buried in the vineyards, a measure utilized to enrich the soil… though for now, they sit protected from the wavelengths of nearby power lines and 5G towers in his handmade oaken treasure chest. His practices toe the line between standard natural winemaking processes and some kind of black magic wizardry – though, the results firmly showcase that whatever he’s doing, it is working.

His home village of Bonneil is virtually flat and runs along the right bank of the Marne River, though the vineyards hug its edges on a steep slope that horseshoes around the village to the other side of the river. The vines thrive atop clay-silt, clay-limestone, marl, and clay soils with a vein of sand crossing the top, providing a diverse foundation for the grapes to flourish and develop rich complexities.

And those complexities abound in this extra brut Blanc de Blancs, which was mostly harvested in 2018 with an additional 20% of perpetual reserve wine added in to enhance the layers of flavor even further. A scant 1 g/liter dosage was implemented to integrate balance and freshness after the wine had aged for 5 years on the lees in both stainless steel tanks and 43% oak barrels. Only 1,500 bottles were produced, and we feel like lottery winners to have secured enough to share with you Champagne lovers looking for something entirely new and off the beaten path.

Mineral, almost chalky elements mix with bright citrine characteristics – fruits like not-yet-yellow lemon, lime, and tangelo that provide a burst of energy and brightness, softened by creamy notes of ripe pear and baked apple. Subtler flavors of toasty brioche, vanilla, and salty ocean mist come in with the structured and lengthy finish that puckers and primes the mouth for just another sip, and leaves a tingly sensation of herbs like tarragon and fennel fronds. This is truly a unique, refreshing, and magnificently fine Champagne, crafted with the touch of what one might consider a wine magician in some senses. It’s an all-around adventure to enjoy, and I heartily suggest grabbing at least a couple bottles for the betterment of any and all of your upcoming occasions! 97 points for Chardonnay from this part of Champagne is virtually unheard of… and this is truly one not to be missed!