We’re picky about our domestic sparkling wines and painstakingly avoid the ones made as an afterthought from leftover fruit. Iris Vineyards is the furthest thing from that – pouring soul, care, and purpose into every wine they craft, still or sparkling. Located in the southern Willamette Valley, tucked into the foothills of the Oregon Coast Range, the 870-acre estate is planted to 43 acres of vines, roughly 26 of which are Pinot Noir. Sustainability is at the forefront of all they do – using cover crops, alternate row mowing, ecological compensation areas, and canopy management to work alongside nature to maintain the health of their crops and soils.

As such, Pamela Frye and Richard Boyles’ focus throughout their time stewarding their land is the Greek concept of “areté” – or the pursuit of becoming the best version of oneself and continually striving for improvement. This translates to their vineyard, their wines, and even their label – a depiction of an eye that signifies the desire to always look for ways to evolve. 

Their 2021 Blanc de Noirs – entirely estate grown on their 1,000-foot-high Chalice Vineyard – is made in the traditional method with all riddling, disgorging, and labeling operations on-site. With the cool climate of the Lorane Valley – even in the somewhat warmer 2021 vintage – grape ripening occurs slowly and evenly, keeping sugar accumulation low while generating higher levels of acid. The result is decidedly Champagne-like, with a tiny dosage of just 1 gram per liter and no malo to allow the natural subtleties of the fruit characters to shine.

The glass presents energetic, persistent bubbles and a light golden color, with charismatic notes of lemon hard candy, chamomile, and green apple charging in first, followed closely by ripe cantaloupe, some creamy components, and French bread. A salinic, mineral thread persists throughout the substantial finish – and if I shut my eyes, I’m tempted to call this a Côte des Bar cuvée. Seriously charming, thoughtful stuff from a place that is devoted to quality in every way. $19, darling! Why don’t you snap up at least a few?