Champagne Yves Ruffin Cuvée Racines Extra Brut Premier Cru NV
Organically farmed since 1971, this grower in the Marne Valley makes wines with powerful acidity and lively fruitiness that surprises and delights at every turn.
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Why We Love It...
Founded in 1971 in Avenay-Val-d’Or, Champagne Yves Ruffin has stood out from the crowd from its inception with a strong focus on organic viticulture – which, at the time, was exceedingly rare. Yves and his wife, Odette Pitois – both born into grower families – were just one of four winegrowers, out of thousands, at this time to concentrate on organic practices in order to preserve their environment. Yves also worked with his son, Thierry, to dig his property’s cellar in the chalky Champagne subsoil, which was finally completed in the ‘90s. Eventually, the family expanded its holdings to a few hectares of vineyards in Tauxières-Mutry, overlapping both Vallée de la Marne and la Montagne de Reims. Yves began partnering with local artists to craft one-of-a-kind labels for his cuvees in the mid-’90s, as well.
A true family business, after Yves’ retirement, the winery passed hands to Thierry, who continued forging a path for organic farming, oak barrel vinification, traditional pressing, and lengthy aging practices. Unfortunately, Thierry passed away prematurely, and his wife, Sylvie, and then son, Antonin, took the reins and continued the family legacy in Thierry’s honor.
Whew, is it getting dusty in here? I don’t know about you, but a family that comes together with support and a common mission is something I will always wholeheartedly champion. Not to mention, when that family happens to make some seriously impressive, rich, complex Champagnes of the highest caliber and quality…it’s a no-brainer. I’m all in. And this NV “Racines” (which translates to “roots”) further exemplifies the gift of winemaking in this dedicated family. A celebration of the estate’s reserve wines, it pulls 74% chardonnay from 2016 and 2017, plus 26% pinot noir from vintages spanning 2012 to 2017. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation to preserve and enhance freshness, followed by vinifying on oak and acacia wood before disgorgement in February 2023 and an Extra Brut dosage of 3 g/L.
The result is astoundingly terrific…rich and autolytic, with tons of mineral complexity that carries ample citrus notes of pomelo, lime, and blood orange. There’s a nutty, toasty characteristic that the 96-point review aptly describes as hen of the woods mushroom, and as that is one of my all-time favorite fungi – I’m here for it! The creamy mousse lingers impressively, and baked apples and pears develop in the glass over time. Fantastic stuff that will compete with the cult-y big boys and girls of Champagne’s greats. Our price got it from triple digits to double – which, in our minds, absolutely grants the permission to order at LEAST two. Do with that what you will!
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Technical Details
Champagne Yves Ruffin