Champagne Varnier-Fanniere Esprit de Craie Extra Brut NV
Chalk Soils and Exceptional Know-How... And One Stunning Extra Brut Champagne!
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Why We Love It...
I won’t trouble you with the family history and details this time around…since we just discussed at some length, and trust me – you certainly do not want to run the risk of missing out on TWO delectable Varnier-Fannière Champagnes in a single day!
This Extra Brut, despite not being labeled as such – is both Grand Cru, and a Blanc de Blancs, with a base that is mostly from the 2018 vintage. It seems the family’s notion with these labels is to perhaps one day allow this to be a growth section of the portfolio – and allow them to explore working with other growers, and other blends, to craft these wines in the future. But for now, it is simply another stellar offering in their impressive portfolio, and we’ll go back to the Terry Theisse well, and share his cut-to-the-chase impression. “If this were the regular NV Brut from a “new” Champagne grower, she’d pick up a proud American importer in a flash.”
In my own evaluation of the wine, it is floral and chalky, more linear, and less expressive than the Grand Cru. Zesty and powerful on the palate, with honeysuckle, limes, green apples, golden plums, and plenty of spice – such as clove, pink peppercorn, and tarragon. Nicely fresh throughout, with a bright and pure focus, and the lesser dosage granting this speed and length, making for a perfect aperitif and first-course style of Champagne. We got the same amount as the Grand Cru, and you wouldn’t be amiss to set this up as a side-by-side comparison if possible! At the least, you’ll want to taste one of the excellent wines from Varnier-Fannière and we’ll see what we can do about acquiring more for the future!
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