The Ponson family has made wine and farmed vineyards in the Montagne de Reims for five generations now, but it is this current generation that is primed to change the fortunes of this small family house for good. It started during Maxime’s apprenticeship with his father, as he stubbornly pestered Pascal every chance he got about the opportunities that would come if they transitioned over to organic, and eventually biodynamic farming. Pascal was old school, and unwilling to accept the risk, only yielding at the very last to allow Maxime one single parcel to farm as he wished. The quality of the fruit was a revelation, and now, years later, the entirety of their holdings are farmed using both organic and biodynamic principles. The Ponson brothers go a step further – continuing with natural practices in the cellar – all native yeast, naturally-occurring fermentations, no fining or filtering, and never intervening, to either encourage or prevent malolactic fermentation in their wines. Their only addition is a scant dose of sulfur when necessary, and only right after the fruit is harvested in that case.

Their holdings amount to 13+ hectares, spread across the Petite Montagne sub-region of the Montagne de Reims, with the majority of their vineyards in Vrigny, Coulommes-la-Montagne, Pargny-lès-Reims, Jouy-lès-Reims, Ville-Dommange, Sacy, and Ecueil. The planting mix is dominated by some 70% pinot meunier, with the remaining 30% spread amongst equal parts pinot noir & chardonnay. 

This blend follows that same make-up of grapes, and the region's mash-up of chalk, limestone, clay, and sand provide the components that make this one of the more complex, under $40 Champagnes you can find! The base is the 2019 vintage, with a solid 50% of the final blend stemming from the estate’s reserve cuvee. Fermentation occurs in a mix of stainless steel and concrete vats, with malolactic fermentation allowed to occur, but never encouraged. The wine ages for three years on the lees, before a finishing dosage of 7 grams per liter. 

Beautiful aromas of green apples, spiced with cloves, with a hint of dried fruit leather and smoke lead things off, followed by flavors of pear cider, peaches, dried cherries, red apples and raw almonds. Minerality underscores the flavor profile, as churned gravel, iron ore, and struck flint provide their accents, and evolve into a long and complex finish that perfectly balances the fruit, the minerals, and the spices in a harmonious and pure way. I left a glass, covered, on my desk for a day to check in, and it was extremely fresh, and perhaps even more expressive on day 2! That’s no small feat for bubbly – and speaks to the potential of this young and evolving wine. At this incredible price, grab a few… some for now, and a few for later – you won’t regret it!