Philippe and Véronique Glavier have managed this small estate in the Grand Cru village of Cramant since 1995. Set in the Côte des Blancs, Philippe and Véronique both hail from winegrowing families, with Véronique standing as the 12th generation of her family from the nearby village of Monthelon. Philippe is the third-generation vigneron, who inherited a small domaine that now serves as their base. Over the years, they’ve built their holdings to a total of 4.5 hectares – with 49 different plots in Cramant, Avize, Oger, and Le Mesnil. Each plot is farmed and vinified separately, granting the pair a nearly limitless possibility of chardonnay combinations for blending. 

This 100% chardonnay, entirely from the Le Mesnil Grand Cru is round, yet linear, with a decidedly firm backbone of bright citrus fruits – lemons, limes, grapefruits, and more! Accents of toasted almond slivers and fresh brioche lend weight and plushness, but the overriding sensation is pure freshness and river rock verve. A resounding energy and intensity of zippy, tingly citrus carries this onwards impressively and provides a fresh sensation that carries into a clean and penetrating finish. 

The extra long aging of over 65 months on the lees gives this nuance, yet does nothing to diminish the overall verve and electricity offered here. A subtle 4.5 grams per liter dosage in December of 2022 has justly amplified the fruit and seemingly honed the laser-cut edges of this powerful wine. A full two-plus years on the cork has made this approachable and integrated now, but easily a decade-plus of continued development, and further beauty, awaits those with the patience to do so! I’m really going to try to hold at least one of these for that long…but my, is it ever delicious here and now?