David Pehu is the fourth generation of his family to produce estate-bottled Champagnes, and in his house, you can see old Veuve Pehu labels from the early 1900s. His grandfather sold Champagne under the Antonin Pehu label, and in the early 1970s, his parents created Pehu-Simonet, with the introduction of vines from his mother’s side of the family. David has been involved in production since 1988 and at the helm since 1995. Today, it is without question his house. Of Pehu-Simonet’s 7.5 hectares of vines, 6 are in Grand Cru villages, with some 3.5 hectares of vines in Verzenay, as well as holdings in Verzy, Sillery, Mailly, and Bouzy in the Montagne de Reims, as well as 6.5 acres of chardonnay in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, in the Côte des Blancs. 

This newest disgorgement of Face Nord relies on a cépage of 70% pinot noir and 30% chardonnay – with the base vintage of 2019, filled out with some 30% of the estate’s reserves – a solera-style collection of pinot noir that dates back to 2005. The fruit is predominantly fermented in stainless steel, with about 20% allowed to ferment in oak barrels, and only a portion of that allowed to progress into malolactic fermentation. After the final blend is set, the wine is bottled and set to age on the lees for a full 30 months, before a light dosage of 5 grams per liter. This cuvée has been labeled as an Extra Brut in the past, and while this dosage would still qualify – the choice was made to opt for Brut level classification on the label. Whatever the label boasts – there is no doubt this is a dry and fully intense wine. 

Popping open the bottle, aromas of fresh fall cider – with tart cider apples, cinnamon bark, and yeasty aromatics – get things started here, with a gentle shift to floral elements of jasmine and mandarin blossoms over the first few minutes in the glass. The flavors are expansive and rich, with notes of Bartlett pears, starchy plantains, key limes, lychee, Rainier cherries, and salted plums. It’s tropical, then savory, then autumnal, then mineral – just crazy complex, and ever-morphing into something new and beguiling with each return sip. It’s not disjointed in the slightest – just frenetic, and well, complicated… in a great way…offering a level of nuance not often found in Champagne under $50. There’s a whole lot to like and dwell further on still! I, for one, am excited to have a few for re-discovery over the next several years and suggest you do the same. Delectable, thought-provoking stuff that should be on the radar of every Champagne aficionado! While we have it, at least!