This 100% Pinot Noir hails from Verzenay, and a little plot called Les Perthois. Situated in the middle of the slope, just underneath the famous lighthouse of Verzenay, this may be the finest parcel of his vines in the region, according to David. Like the rest of his portfolio, David doesn’t allow the wine to undergo malolactic fermentation – preferring instead that his Champagnes shine with uncompromised freshness and purity… which, of course, they do. But this choice also compels him to age his cuvées far longer than most before releasing, as the intense and searing malic acids need a few more years to integrate relative to the far more easy-going lactic acids. At nine years young, this cuvée is a current release, just over a year since its disgorgement in January 2024. And, wow, is it spectacular!

The vineyard is certified organic, with David gradually moving towards a greater implementation of biodynamic practices. He cares deeply for his vines, and his winemaking methods, and doesn’t seem to bother comparing his wines or his methods to any of his peers. His intention is to express the terroir of his vineyards, and his wines are singularly unique as a result. They are vinous, to be certain, and somewhat mysterious too. This is a deeply engaging wine that drinks like intelligent conversation – back and forth, with much to say, but little to be resolved, a humble, yet memorable chess match that is less concerned with the outcome than it is with the voyage forward. Yes, it absolutely does all of that… and then some.

The aromas begin with a mature and ripe red apple, followed by red cherries, and almost ripe apricots. From there, the mouth goes underground – with chalky, clay and earthy flavors, only to be uplifted by floral notes of roses and lavender, before turning warm and spicy with toasted star anise and black peppercorn. The finish is a return to the earth – a humbled mass of jagged and crushed granite rocks, with a depth that drags and stays for a minute or more. There’s a lot going on with this, and a lot to like and dwell further on still. I’m excited to have a few for my collection – to be drunk and revered over the next several years. I can’t advocate for this wine enough, and Champagne purists will certainly want to watch this estate with care over the coming years!