David Pehu is the fourth generation of his family to produce estate-bottled Champagnes, and in his house you can see old Veuve Pehu labels from the early 20th century. His grandfather sold Champagne under the Antonin Pehu label, and in the early 1970s his parents created Pehu-Simonet, with the introduction of vines from his mother’s side of the family. David has been involved in production since 1988, and at the helm since 1995. Of Pehu-Simonet’s 7.5 hectares of vines, six are in Grand Cru villages. In addition to 3.5 hectares of vines in Verzenay, Pehu has holdings in Verzy, Sillery, Mailly and Bouzy in the Montagne de Reims, as well as 6.5 acres of chardonnay in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, in the Côte des Blancs. 

This is 100% chardonnay from five plots scattered across the chalky limestone of Le Mesnil – all fermented in stainless steel tanks, with no malolactic fermentation whatsoever. David always blocks malolactic as he believes it better preserves the finesse and expression of fruit in the long-run. With 84 months aging on the lees, the long-run is precisely what he’s looking towards, and this wine is an absolute achievement!

A miniscule 1.5 grams-per-liter dosage allows the wine’s purity to take the forefront, simply packed from the get-go with lemon cookies, shortbread dough, lime zest, and mandarin blossoms. The wine is round and savory on the palate, with a light mushroom and fresh-turned earth note, sitting lightly atop a deep core of apples, pears, and cantaloupe melon fruit sensations. Very clean throughout; precise on the long, smooth finish. This sings clear and bright, with an energetic mousse… solid stuff from start to finish. There’s no doubt about it – it is both definitively Le Mesnil, and unmistakably made by David Pehu. This is my new, slightly geeky, mostly cool, ace-up-the-sleeve to show-off among worthy friends! Twenty cases is all we have, so don’t delay!