As the second-oldest Champagne family in Ambonnay, with a history of growing grapes in the region going back to the early 1600s, the Déthunes' stewardship of their plots in the Grand Cru village of Ambonnay is second to none. With an unbroken line of winemakers going back to 1610 (the same year Galileo discovered three moons of Jupiter, by the way), Pierre Déthune embraces modern wines without vanquishing tradition. Located in the pristine hamlet of Ambonnay, one of only 17 villages rated as "Grand Cru" in the whole of Champagne, Pierre and Sophie Déthune have become known for powerful yet delicate wines like this.

This cuvee is 100% pinot noir and is vinified in 205-liter Champagne oak barrels in the family cellars, which were hand-cut out of the chalk bedrock in the 17th century. Special insiders only tip: (*whispers quietly*) this blend contains a chunk of Ambonnay’s revered pinot noir haven, Les Crayeres, one of the most coveted vineyards in all of Champagne! That perfectly chalky, mineral bite is a signature of this wine – yielding a precision and tension to the overall finish. 

Balancing that laser-like focus is the rich and developed note that stems from a whopping 34% of the final blend coming in the form of Déthune’s pinot noir solera reserve. This contains a mixture of juice extending back over the last forty years (!) and a just crazy, unimaginable level of complexity and nuance resides within. The bottles mature for two years on the lees, before a finishing dosage of 5 g/liter. The family’s shift to lower dosages has produced an enhanced freshness and verve to the finished wines without sacrificing the purely ripe fruit orchard characteristics that are definitively Ambonnay. The quality of their wines is undoubtedly the better for it, and these wines get better every time we taste them. 

This fills the room with a wonderful mandarin orange, grapefruit, shortbread biscuit, and apricot aroma right off the bat, with a delicate croissant crust, and a dash of vanilla toast – carrying to the palate a wave of rich, sensual texture that is underscored by raspberry, cherry, and Gala apple fruit notes. There is always remarkable salinity that takes these wines to the next level – like a big gulp of fresh sea air, and the living limestone element of crunchy oyster shells. The balance and forwardness of this Déthune offering is pristine, and a second glass is mandatory! 95 points catches the eye, sure, but here it is the flavor that stays around forever. Just the right complexity, generous personality, and a spectacularly long finish. How is this so good? Why is it not $125?! No matter, just follow my lead – load up and drink up whilst this beauty lasts!