As the second-oldest Champagne family in Ambonnay, with an unbroken history of growing grapes in the region going back to the 1600s, the Déthune’s stewardship of their plots in the Grand Cru village of Ambonnay is paramount. Pierre Déthune is the latest in a long line of vintners going all the way back to 1610. Like each of his forebears, Pierre has created his own style of Champagne – rooted in tradition, yet ever-evolving – the one constant being the rolling grasslands of Ambonnay. 

The vineyard practices natural and organic techniques such as integrated pest management, solar power, and a complete lack of chemical use in the vineyard. With Ambonnay set as arguably the center point of the Grower Champagne movement, the Déthunes have set an example – positioning a benchmark that all others should strive to achieve.

Faithful to the house's traditional methods, this Blanc de Blancs Millésime Grand Cru 2016 is aged and vinified in 205-liter oak barrels before bottling and aging on the lees for seven years. Over the past few years, the Déthune portfolio has gradually lowered the total dosage – transitioning the majority of their wines to Extra Brut or below (even when labeled as Brut). This wine has a dosage of five grams per liter, and it is showing beautifully. The shift to lower dosages has produced an enhanced freshness and verve to the finished wines without sacrificing the purely ripe fruit orchard characteristics that are definitively Ambonnay.

For a straight chardonnay cuvée, this wine has an almost pinot noir-esque vinosity, with floral notes of mandarin blossoms, roses, and star jasmine, plus apple orchard, pistachio, licorice, and fresh-cut grass, which makes sense considering Ambonnay is known mostly as pinot country. The flavors turn decidedly spicy and rich on the palate as notes of Chinese five spice, roasted almonds, raspberries, pear, and peach come out, all framed with a persistent chalkiness and saline minerality. Our favorite part? We took every single bottle made! No one else has this beauty in the entire country – just so incredibly rare and delicious. This is what I like to call “pedigreed perfection” in a bottle, but it is soooo incredibly limited…only about 10 cases total to be had! I’d order now if I were you!