Back in 1955, Maurice Vesselle, the fourth generation in a large family of winemakers in Bouzy, first branched out on his own and put his name on a Champagne label. Now, decades later, the Maurice Vesselle house rests in the capable hands of his two sons, Didier and Thierry, who are proudly known as the “Vesselles who plough.” I love this quote from Didier, expanding on that notion: “We have never ceased to earth up the vines in winter and earth down in spring, plowing deeply to force the vine to put down deep and lasting roots. Maintaining the vineyard in this traditional manner is ecologically sound; it pollutes less than herbicides and helps to balance variations in humidity. Yesterday we were called old-fashioned, today we're avant-garde.” Think of it as a way to stress the vines – but far beyond mere neglect – and more so a way to educate the vines, train them, and make them healthier and more robust over time.

As a result, Champagne Maurice Vesselle seeks out minerality – a quality abundant in the wines of the Côte des Blancs, but somewhat more elusive in this portion of the Montagne de Reims, as powerful fruit defines the style of Bouzy. For this reason, they vinify plot by plot in temperature-controlled stainless steel, allowing them to highlight those lots that achieve the qualities they seek and build out their final blends from there. And finally, they show the necessary patience to allow it all to come together. With 80% Pinot Noir, the balance of Chardonnay helps integrate some acidity and minerality into the fruitier skeleton, as does the slight, Extra Brut-worthy dosage of only 5 grams per liter.

The resulting wine is powerful and brooding right out the gate, with a wild note of cider apples and iron shavings, sourdough boules, and a whisper of freshly poured asphalt. Things brighten up considerably in the mouth, as notes of apricots, and golden apples, with dried mango, and tart cranberry notes coming to the fore. The lingering element of your favorite Parisian-style bakery carries this into a long, dry, and mouth-coating finish, with a hint of toasted almonds that flitters about the tongue long after your final sip. Fantastic now, but with life to extend over another few years, this is something worth savoring! We’re delighted to have found another Bouzy Vesselle to wrap our arms around... and excited to see what’s next for these two charismatic brothers!