Champagne Marteaux Guillaume Infusion Rose Brut NV
Meaty, Savory, Incredibly Complex 97 pt. Biodynamic Rose Champagne!
Retail
Why We Love It...
In the gorgeous Marne Valley, and the tiny village of Bonneil, we braved a fierce tempest that was almost too much for our little rental car just to visit Champagne Marteaux Guillaume. And what a treat it was! Bonneil is almost perfectly flat, running alongside the right bank of the Marne River, but with the majority of its vineyards resting on a steep slope that horseshoes around the village on the other side. The sun was shining gloriously, but the wind was howling and the chill was brisk – and we eagerly sought refuge in the cellar. Even without power, as Guillaume guided us through his facility with a flashlight, it was obvious that this is a no-frills, efficient, and effective workspace – not nearly as large as a grand estate in Bordeaux, nor as fancy, but thoughtfully lain out, and perfect for his small and singular production.
He works all his vineyards – 54 small parcels scattered across the hillside of Bonneil – organically and biodynamically, in tune with the fluctuations of the seasons and the moon, and speaks of his vines as though they were people. He gives them potions and tinctures when they are stressed or overworked, he lets them tell him when the fruit is ready to be tasted or harvested, and he painstakingly mixes his own concoctions of natural ingredients to treat their ailments and needs – like some ancient apothecary maven. He even custom-built a case to house and protect his precious compost tea and cow horns that will be ritualistically buried in the vineyards when the time comes – yet for now protected in this treasure chest designed to block the harmful vibrations of nearby power lines or 5G towers. He “energizes” all the water used in his winemaking with a custom-built mixer, as well as all the water that will carry his tinctures and spread them across his vines. This all may seem a bit much to those uninitiated about the methods and madness of biodynamic farming, I get it, but there is no questioning the results. One must remember that farmers are superstitious as a rule, and in a constant state of response and adaptation to the fickle whims of nature – and Guillaume’s obvious passion and considerable efforts are inseparably linked to how he maintains such a unique and top-quality portfolio.
This “Infusion” rosé is made in the rosé de saignée style – wherein the juice is “bled off” from the tank after a full day of macerating on the skins – in this case a blend of some 80% pinot meunier and 20% chardonnay. The co-fermented wine keeps its coppery rose color throughout fermentation and the six years of aging on the lees – as opposed to a traditional sparkling rosé that receives its color from the addition of a red still wine being added at disgorgement. The fruit hails from nearly 60-year-old vines, grown on steeply sloping hillsides of clay, marl, and limestone just a short drive from the winery, and boasts a complexity and intensity like few Champagne rosés I have tasted. Deep and vinous, with a light oxidation note that softens this intense wine perfectly, with a remarkable profile of umeboshi plums, copper, smoky flint, dried cherry, crushed raspberry, lemongrass, and slivered almonds. The mouthfeel showcases tons of structure, with intense and tingly acidity, and the slightest whisper of phenolic bitterness at the close. It’s sharp, yet broad, brawny, and utterly captivating. You’ll want this with food, and I think the pairings for this border on the edge of infinity. Every gourmand, foodie, chef, and more should have a few of these in the rotation – and as the 97 point review states: “It's an exceptional wine and defies gravity for the rosé category.”
We’re thrilled to share this, and other wines from Marteaux Guillaume’s portfolio with you – fantastic stuff, to be certain, from one of Champagne’s most passionate biodynamic growers! Only one other shop in the USA has this – at nowhere near our spectacular price! Get a couple and I promise, you’ll be as enamored as I am!
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Champagne Marteaux Guillaume