Don’t let the name throw you off. “Le Météque” is actually a derogatory local French term for a shifty-looking immigrant of Mediterranean origin – clearly applied here to denote the rare use of chardonnay in this area of the Marne Valley. In the land of pinot meunier, chardonnay is certainly an outlier, accounting for only 11% of the plantings. It doesn’t surprise me that Guillaume chose something so tongue-in-cheek as the name of one of his top cuvees – the exceptionally passionate vintner views his prized vines and spectacular land as a playground of sorts for expressing his creativity. He works all of his vineyards following the strictest of organic and biodynamic methods, following the lead of the seasons and the moon, and speaking of his vines as though they are people…his friends, really. If they’re stressed or overworked, he offers them hand-crafted natural elixirs to heal. He listens to and observes them with painstaking precision in order to understand the best time for harvest.

During our tour of his property – flashlight in hand and cobbling together communications between our non-existent French and his limited English – Guillaume showed us his apothecary, where he stores foraged roots, dried herbs, and minerals to be turned into tinctures for the individual needs of his vines, rather than applying commonplace chemical treatments that other producers might employ to stave off infection or insects. He even custom-built a case to house his precious compost tea and cow horns to eventually be ritualistically buried in the vineyards, a measure utilized to enrich the soil…though for now, they sit protected from the wavelengths of nearby power lines and 5G towers in his handmade oaken treasure chest. His practices toe the line between standard natural winemaking processes and some kind of black magic wizardry – though, the results firmly showcase that whatever he’s doing, it is working. Big time.

The village of Bonneil is virtually flat and runs along the right bank of the Marne River, though the vineyards hug its edges on a steep slope that horseshoes around the village to the other side of the river. The vines thrive atop clay-silt, clay-limestone, marl, and clay soils with a vein of sand crossing the top, providing a diverse foundation for the grapes to flourish and develop rich complexities.

And those complexities abound in this extra brut Blanc de Blancs, which was mostly harvested in 2018 with an additional 20% of perpetual reserve wine added in to enhance the layers of flavor even further. A scant 1 g/liter dosage was implemented to integrate balance and freshness after the wine had aged for 5 years on the lees in both stainless steel tanks and 43% oak barrels. Only 1500 bottles were produced, and we feel like lottery winners to have secured enough to share with you Champagne lovers looking for something entirely new and off the beaten path. Mineral, almost chalky elements mix with bright citrine characteristics – fruits like not-yet-yellow lemons, lime, and tangelo that provide a burst of energy and brightness, softened by creamy notes of ripe pear and baking apples. Subtler flavors of toasty brioche, vanilla, and salty ocean mist come in with a structured and lengthy finish that puckers and primes the mouth for just another sip, and leaves a tingly sensation of herbs like tarragon and fennel fronds. This is truly a unique, refreshing, and magnificently fine Champagne, crafted with the touch of what one might consider a wine magician in some senses. It’s an all-around adventure to enjoy, and I heartily suggest grabbing at least a couple bottles for the betterment of any and all of your upcoming occasions! 97 points for chardonnay from this part of Champagne is virtually unheard of…and this is truly one not to be missed!