Several years back, husband-wife duo Jean-Marie and Martine Goulard opened their domaine in the quaint village of Prouilly, situated just north of the Montagne de Reims region. The vineyards here perch on the slopes of the Massif de Saint Thierry, its soils composed of clay, limestone, and chalk. Both pinot meunier and pinot noir flourish in this area, which is exactly why they are the two main varieties the Goulards have planted throughout their vineyards, along with small portions of chardonnay to use in their blends. This Special Club 2016 is made of 40% pinot noir and 30% each of pinot meunier and chardonnay, all organically grown by the founders’ sons, Damien, Sébastien, and Sylvain.

Damien has been in the role of head winemaker since 2012, embracing efforts toward organic farming and implementing longer time on lees for all of the label’s wines to enhance their complexity. The fruit from the property’s parcels undergo separate fermentation in small lots in oak barrels to allow for a better understanding of the land and how it’s expressed in the wine, allowing for more intentional blending efforts. The one exception is the chardonnay plots, which experience co-fermentation due to a shortage in the area. This cuvee was aged on the lees for an impressive 65 months prior to disgorgement and an Extra Brut dosage of 5 grams per liter.

The lush, golden, boisterously full wine opens with bursting peaches and pears, layered with floral notes of jasmine and alyssum, and a mouthwatering touch of just-buttered English muffins straight from the toaster. Stone fruits continue their onslaught on the palate – apricot in the lead, and then nectarine – before a rush of citrus fruits, including grapefruit and pomelo, come in next. A devastatingly mouthwatering basket of hand-pulled saltwater taffy, rhubarb, and pickled ginger packed on the finish with spectacular spice and something that lasts a good while. This one is a pure fun, wow-worthy grower Champagne whose Special Club nomenclature is completely justified. If only we had even more to go around!