Champagne Jeaunaux-Robin was founded by Michel and Marie-Claude Jeaunaux in 1964 and is now run by the next generation, Cyril and Clémence Jeaunaux-Robin, with some five hectares of vines planted behind their home in the village of Talus-Saint-Prix. The vineyards are 45-60 years of age (considered ancient for Champagne vineyards), and grown in a decidedly unique soil make-up that is rarely seen anywhere else in Champagne. Amongst the pockets of traditional clay, limestone, and silt, there is a huge scattering of flint-rich silex soils throughout – a prized mineral that lends these wines a unique complexity.

This cuvée is 80% chardonnay and 20% pinot noir – with the base stemming from the 2018 (70%) and 2017 (30%) vintages. A rare cuvée for the region – where pinot meunier is the prized planting (due to the village’s propensity for early season frost damage on their south-facing slopes). As such, the farming here is both high-risk and meticulous – with the second-generation, Cyril and Clémence Jeaunaux-Robin sharing the considerable efforts needed to maintain these exceptional vineyards. As long-time practitioners of bio-dynamic methods, and the vineyards currently undergoing organic certification, this is no easy task – but they manage nevertheless to craft some of the most exquisite, small-production Champagne I’ve ever tasted!

The wine seduces you with a powerful nose that gives notes of pine tar, iron, and Japanese plum wine. The heady initiation gives way to a veritable dance through an alpine meadow, with fresh wild grass, alpine strawberries, and wildflowers, alongside a core of ripe stone fruits like plums and nectarines. There is a vinous and full-octane character to these imposing Champagnes – at once both elegant and intimidating – in the mold of Catherine the Great, Elizabeth I, or even my personal favorite… the legendary Pirate Queen, Grace O’Malley. Harmonious throughout, vastly expansive, yet remarkably focused, with a soft and bright finish. In a word, delightful! The judicious 6 g/l dosage amplifies the fruit and freshness, though there is a weight and secondary complexity from lengthy aging on the lees, and the unique landscape and considerable expertise of the Jeaunaux-Robin team does the rest!

We got as much of this new disgorgement as we could, especially for this heroic price of nearly 50% off. There are only a few more left in the warehouse – the quality for value is simply off the charts here! Best of luck, and cheers!