Named for the banks of mist that are visible at the top of the vineyard, Fil de Brume translates to “wire of mist” – a name nearly as lovely as the wine itself. We came across this wondrous producer on a recent trip to Champagne, and while these trips are always delightfully chock-full of tastings and winery visits, it’s all the more gratifying to meet and hear the tales of producers face to face, and this was one story we greatly relished.

Champagne Jeaunaux-Robin was founded by Michel and Marie-Claude Jeaunaux in 1964 and is now run by the next generation, Cyril and Clémence Jeaunaux-Robin, with some five hectares of vines planted behind their home in the village of Talus-Saint-Prix. The vineyards are 45-60 years of age (considered ancient for Champagne vineyards), and grown in a decidedly unique soil make-up that is rarely seen anywhere else in the region. Amongst the pockets of traditional clay, limestone, and silt, there is a huge scattering of flint-rich silex soils throughout – a prized mineral that lends these wines a unique complexity.

This cuvée is 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir – with the base stemming from the 2018 (70%) and 2017 (30%) vintages. A rare cuvée for the region – where Pinot Meunier is the prized planting (due to the village’s propensity for early season frost damage on their south-facing slopes). As such, the farming here is both high-risk and meticulous – with the second-generation, Cyril and Clémence Jeaunaux-Robin, sharing the considerable efforts needed to maintain these exceptional vineyards. As long-time practitioners of biodynamic methods, and the vineyards currently undergoing organic certification, this is no easy task – but they manage nevertheless to craft some of the most exquisite, small-production Champagne I’ve ever tasted!

The wine seduces with a powerful nose that gives notes of pine tar, iron, and Japanese plum wine. The heady initiation gives way to a veritable dance through an alpine meadow, with fresh wild grass, alpine strawberries, and wildflowers, alongside a core of ripe stone fruits like plums and nectarines. There is a vinous and full-octane character to these imposing Champagnes – at once both elegant and powerful. Harmonious throughout, vastly expansive, yet remarkably focused, with a soft and bright finish. In a word, delightful! The judicious 6 g/l dosage amplifies the fruit and freshness, though there is a weight and secondary complexity from lengthy aging on the lees, and the unique landscape and considerable expertise of the Jeaunaux-Robin team does the rest!

We got as much of this new disgorgement as we could, especially for this heroic price of nearly half off. There are only a few more left in the warehouse – the quality for value is simply off the charts here! Best of luck, and cheers!