When Arnaud stepped into his passed-down role of owner of his family’s domaine in 2002, he inherited not only a heritage of craftsmanship but also a profound sense of responsibility to honor and evolve his family’s legacy. As he walked among the old vines and reflected on over a century of perseverance, he felt a calling to liberate the family’s wines from the confines of a cooperative they’d long been a part of, and allow them to express their true identity instead. That vision came to fruition in 2018, when Gounel-Lassalle completed its first harvest as a Récoltant-Manipulant. The wines now feel wholly at home – as if they have arrived precisely where they were always meant to be, in their own time and on their own terms.

Spanning over 150 years and four generations, his family’s journey is a quiet triumph of patience, conviction, and devotion to the land. Each generation brought exactly what was needed in its time, laying the groundwork for a domaine that today produces wines of clarity, depth, and soulful precision. By the 1950s, the family had taken root in Chigny-les-Roses, where Arnaud’s grandmother Hélène joined the local cooperative. Though the estate’s vineyard holdings and production remained modest, Gounel-Lassalle wines began to find their way to discerning tables across France. In 1972, Arnaud’s father Pierre assumed stewardship of the domaine, gradually expanding both its vineyard footprint and output while continuing to work within the cooperative model.

This “Esprit Voyageur” Premier Cru Brut Nature is a blend of all three noble varieties, encompassing the house’s spirit of freedom, adventure, and heritage. With a luminous pale gold hue, the wine exposes aromas of Key lime pie, fresh-cut grass, and lemon meringue leaping from the glass, followed by a light umeboshi note of floral, salted plums, and elements of rhubarb and pickled watermelon rind complementing a sweet and perfectly ripe cantaloupe. It’s pretty, yet substantial, with a totally unique combination of flavors and aromas that somehow unequivocally works. With a dry and focused finish, this wine reminds me of exactly what I adore in small-batch Grower Champagne: individuality, grit, passion, and craftsmanship, all wrapped into one lovely and delicious package. To have this for only $41 is truly inconceivable – yet it’s the deal we have today! You’ll be wise – and long pleased – to scoop up as much as possible!