Goulin-Roualet is a small father-daughter operation based in Sacy,  a small Premier Cru village a couple miles south of Reims, contained within the northern reaches of the Montagne de Reims. Today, Christophe Goulin and his daughter Marine work alongside one another in their small cellar, with only a handful of barrels and some half dozen stainless steel tanks, producing a robust portfolio of 11 different cuvees. Most of these never leave France, but we tasted four, and grabbed three of our favorites. We’re notoriously picky – especially when it comes to Champagne, so three out of four is wildly impressive…

The 2017 ‘Sous-Bois’ was the first Goulin Roualet we offered to you, my glorious bubble monsters, and I’m thrilled to say, we recently scored a wee bit more to share! ‘Sous-Bois’ translates  to “under wood,”which speaks to the woodland accents that develop over aging and fermenting in wood – in this case, 205 liter Champagne oak barrels. Christophe and Marine allow this wine to develop over a seven-month period in these vessels, with a weekly batonnage stirring to build texture, creaminess, and that signature expressive flavor.

The blend is 50-50 pinot and chardonnay, with each grape hailing from a single plot – Les Hatons for the pinot noir, and Les Belons for the chardonnay. The grapes are allowed to go through a partial malolactic conversion in barrel, before blending and bottling for a full five years on the lees. Following disgorgement of the lees, this batch was corked without any dosage, making this a Brut Nature. At the end of it all,  a total yield of just 168 cases was made, and this is even better now than when we first tasted it! 

The wine expresses tremendous depth – no doubt as a result of the prolonged treatment and elevage behind this wine. Myriad spice and woodsy notes, with a lightly oxidative style, yet a remarkable freshness that showcases sour berries and cherries, salted plums, plus an herb garden bounty of tarragon, fennel, sage, and lemon verbena. The nutty, toasty elements of the barrel aging and batonnage allows for a roundness to complement the zip and verve of the fruit sensations, and the marriage of the two is profoundly harmonious – almost surprisingly so. This is delectably intense, and the sort of Champagne that demands your attention – not a simple sipper to be lightly forgotten.

In a word, I absolutely LOVE it. It’s something you should try and have in your cellar… especially as ‘sous-bois’ wines are definitely not ubiquitous. It’s not typical of Champagne to age under wood, and the textural complexities that come with this are fantastic! A truly pleasurable drinking experience that never disappoints. Cheers!