Champagne Goulin-Roualet Carte Noire Brut Premier Cru NV
95 points for this exceptional bottling of our favorite new Grower Producer discovery of the past year! If you haven’t tried these wines yet, do not hesitate – this small family estate is Grower Champagne at its finest!
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Why We Love It...
First, the basics: Goulin-Roualet is a father-daughter outfit based in Sacy, a small Premier Cru village south of Reims. Marine, the “daughter,” runs the day-to-day winemaking, but her father, Christophe, is never far away and always willing to lend a hand. Their production facility is small, yet efficient, with just enough tanks, vats, and barrels to make the whole of their 11 cuvee portfolio – most of which scarcely exceeds 150 cases in total production. Goulin-Roualet is an artisan producer that makes some of the best – mostly unknown – cuvees in Champagne today!
Their vinification process is an all-stainless steel operation. They allow their wines to undergo partial malo, which builds texture and richness. The dosage is on the lower end of Brut – almost Extra Brut – at just 6.45 grams per liter. They prefer the wine’s character to stand on its own versus its identity being masked with dosage, or the “makeup,” if you will. I agree with their philosophy, as I love my wines uber dry.
This blend focuses on just the red grapes of Champagne – pinot noir and meunier – with a skosh of chardonnay thrown in for structure and acidity. Of all the Goulin-Roualet cuvees, this one has the lowest pressure, meaning with a lower intensity of bubbles that showcases a more vinous style. All-purpose stems or even Burgundy bowls should be the glassware of choice here, to properly showcase its lees-y, autolytic style. The biscuit aromas are joined with flavors of red cherries and plums, Bartlett pears, Granny Smith apples and orange cream. I’m salivating already. With a lean and mineral-driven finish that feels and tastes like what we imagine crushed rocks to taste like, it sets the stage for the next sip to follow…and I’m left pondering how such a small grower can craft such a beguiling and incredibly unique wine. Every time I revisit this wine, I stand stoic, oftentimes mouth agape, in awe of the sheer craftsmanship of this wine. It never ceases to amaze me and delivers every single time. If there’s nothing else you buy today, just be smart and buy this. The price is already marked at 45% off, so it’s priced to sell. We have so much faith in it that we’ve made it impossible for you to say no to this. That’d be a very bad idea.
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Champagne Goulin-Roualet