Over four centuries of tenure and the title of the oldest winery in Champagne give this house some serious pedigree (though, they started with still wines – Ruinart has the honor of being Champagne’s oldest sparkling producer). The Grand Cru village of Aÿ is the house’s home base, near the town of Epernay, in the Vallee de Marne, where the Gosset family held court for many years as public figures intent on protecting their precious Champagne terroir. The terroir they fought to protect and continue protecting is sourced from Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards – almost exclusively – in the Cotes des Blancs, Vallee de Marne, and the Montagne de Reims. 

In 1993, Gosset sold to the Renaud-Cointreau family of Cognac Frapin. But this wasn’t a familial drama a la Mondavi and Constellation; the Gosset family wanted a parent company that would be just as adamant about land stewardship and upholding quality as they are. Renaud-Cointreau insisted on continuing the old style of winemaking that was prevalent in the village of Aÿ. At the same time, though, the Gossets and Renaud-Cointreau family understand that new technologies and practices can enhance their already-stellar wine while making processes more efficient, so in 2009, they acquired a property in Epernay that, essentially, expands their cellar and production facilities. 

The commitment to quality has shone through to the transition to new ownership, with today’s offer showcasing an exquisite rosé Champagne. Blended of 59% chardonnay and 41% pinot noir – 7% of which is a still red wine added right after disgorgement – this jaw-dropping presentation hails from top vineyard sites in Avize, Chouilly, Cramant, Vertus, Aÿ, and Bouzy. With such a tapestry of fruit raised in the challenging growing year that was 2007, the result is something unequivocally balanced, layered, and fresh. The addition of 96 months’ aging time on the lees allowed it ample time to integrate into a singularly harmonious wine – and it’s no wonder it was given the apt name of “Celebris,” which translates to English as “famous, celebrated, or renowned.”

That extended tirage creates a creamy and silky wine that flirts with the tongue, especially since Gosset wines don’t allow malolactic conversion to occur. This is quite the mouthful with so much breathtaking complexity taking place – first with bursting aromatics of red cherries, rose water, and plums that cascade into tones of ripe nectarines, crisp red apples, cherry, taffy, salted plums, and toasted baguettes. The finish is delightfully long and lush, complete with an electric zip of citrine character that carries the whole thing through to a splendid close. This is a proper journey that will surprise and please anyone who partakes in it, until the very last drop in the bottle. I sincerely believe any fan of Champagne must try this wine at some point…so, why not today?  What a wonderful addition to your bubbles collection: history, winemaking excellence, viticultural vigilance, and finesse. Sounds like a cause for celebration to me!