The initial nose is quite shy, but coaxing reveals a character expressing white fruit such as pear and spring flowers enhanced by pastry and citrusy notes. The palate has a suave, even mouthcoating texture and remarkable depth that is beautifully sustained by chalky salinity and a gorgeous grapefruit taste

A firm, focused Champagne, with hints of smoke and toasted brioche accenting poached apricot, lemon curd, pastry dough and candied ginger. Creamy on the palate, with racy acidity driving the spiced finish. Opens nicely in the glass and should benefit from some short-term cellaring.