This is a house for the nerdiest Grower Champagne aficionados! The Rodez family’s roots in the grassy hills of Ambonnay go all the way back to the 1700s, passed down over nine generations from father to son. The estate covers a pristine six hectares in this Grand Cru village – a spot that we’ve long argued serves as a central cog in the rise of the entire Grower Champagne movement. The Rodez family is certainly numbered among these fine producers – and without a doubt one of the most famous recoltant manipulants in all of Champagne. Eric’s stint at Krug brought prestige and notoriety to the family operation, but for most of the past decade, it is his son, Mikhael that is carrying the torch to ever greater heights.

Like every great Champagne, the focus here begins in the vineyards. Longtime proponents of organic practices, the vineyards have been certified organic since 2012, with full biodynamic certification following a short time later in 2015. It was actually the challenging vintage of 1984 that sent the family looking for answers on how to improve the health of their vineyards – answers that would ultimately be found in the oftentimes harsh environment of Alsace. They shifted their farming practices to be more preventative than prescriptive as a result, and over the decades this has made all the difference. 

The Rodez portfolio is often characterized by its immense vinosity, finesse, complexity, and elegance – in large part due to Eric and Mikhael’s obsession with aging individual parcels to meticulously use in their artistic assemblage process. The Rosé of Pinot Noir is crafted with extended skin contact (the maceration method), pouring a lovely and soft salmon rose hue with a steady perlage. Aromas of red cherries, with anise seed, and wild alpine herbs waft from the glass, with accompanying flavors of rose petals and blood orange, alongside tantalizing notes of almond extract and sweet red bean ice cream. This is dry and incredibly serious, but imbued with a sweet flamboyance that adds a copious dusting of surreal pleasure atop all of that vinous pedigree and bearing. Everyone should love this – but the real die-hard Champagne purists are going to go absolutely mad for it! Under $85 for this level of craftsmanship and detailedness is a steal that will pay off in spades!