Domaine de Marzilly is a 12th century estate that was purchased by the Ullens family in 2012. What was once little more than an ancient ruin, the property and grounds came back to prominence thanks to the Ullens’ steadfast work – elevating the reputation of the village of Hermonville, in the Massif de Saint-Thierry, along the way. This is about as far north as Champagne goes, and hearty grape vines are required to endure the oftentimes harsh conditions. As such, Pinot Meunier is the focal point here, accounting for roughly 80% of the Ullens family’s plantings, with the remaining 17% dedicated to Chardonnay and a scant 3% of Pinot Noir.

Despite the challenges presented through farming so far north, the Ullens’ vines are all farmed organically, with an emphasis on dry-farming and sustainable applications throughout the growing season. Made from 100% Pinot Meunier, “L.P.M.” stands both for La Petite Montagne, a landmark north of the city of Reims, in the far northern extent of the Montagne de Reims and for “Le Pinot Meunier,” the chosen grape of Champagne Ullens. Fashioned from a single plot, this mostly 2019 wine is vinified and aged in oak barrels for 11 months to increase complexity and texture. This is immediately followed by bottling and aging on the lees for 28 months, with all riddling laboriously done by hand. After disgorgement in December 2022, a final dosage of 2.2 g/l is added.

All of that leads to one tremendous, energetic, and elegant wine that could easily go for double, if not triple, our price. This is all at once beautifully nuanced and full – with sensations of toasted almonds, baked Granny Smith apple, and brioche dough, plus further accents of sea spray, green cardamom, Meyer lemon, ground cherries, and raspberry saltwater taffy – all beautifully underscored with a chalky minerality. There’s a lot going on in this wine, and for such a young house, with virtually no prior experience in crafting Champagne (or even growing grapes!)...well, to say we are thrilled about this wine is an enormous understatement. Only a handful of cases to go around, so definitely one not to miss!