Domaine de Marzilly as an estate was originally founded in the 12th century but was purchased by the Ullens family in 2012. They revived the property and grounds and elevated its status and reputation, as well as the status and reputation of the village of Hermonville in the Massif de Saint-Thierry, along the way. This is about as far north as Champagne goes, and hearty grape vines are required to endure the often harsh conditions. As such, pinot meunier is the focal point here, accounting for roughly 80% of the Ullen family’s plantings, with the remaining 17% dedicated to chardonnay and a scant 3% of pinot noir.

Maxime Ullens focuses on making traditional, barrel-fermented cuvees with oak harvested from his own forests and made at the local cooperage. This hyper-localized Champagne is a downright treat and a huge part of Maxime receiving Gault Millau’s prestigious “Winemaker of the Year” award. Despite the challenges presented through farming so far north, the vines are still farmed organically, with an emphasis on dry-farming and sustainable applications throughout the growing season. For this “Lot 8” bottling, we find a blend of 80% pinot meunier, supported by 20% chardonnay. Roughly half of the wine hails from the estate’s reserves, and the finished blend undergoes aging on the lees for 41 months prior to disgorgement. Dosage is a judicious 3 grams per liter, keeping this bright, structured, and vinous – even amongst the typically brawny style of pinot meunier dominant Champagnes.

The wine whispers at first, as delicate aromas of flowers and roasted almonds slowly build, showing increasingly complex notes of myriad stone fruits, and grassy herbs. The wine has a precise attack in the mouth – with a preponderance of fresh citrus notes such as lemon, and tangerine, followed by savory elements of smoke and iron, with a lingering note of white cherries. The wine is structured and powerful – with a finish that lingers for a full minute plus. This is about as good of an off-the-radar deal as we’ve had in some time...and all bubbly lovers would do well to have a bottle or two of this in their arsenal!