Rather unique in the récoltant-coopérateur world is the Hulin practice of aging their vin clair in barrels for a full year before bringing their wine to their village co-op to have the transformation to a sparkling wine handled off-site. Their little farm shed of a winery is simply too small to make the sparkling on-site – and the local co-op in Ambonnay is as good as you’ll find anywhere in Champagne. A small portion of their fruit goes into the collection of countless other growers, to be blended and stand as the base wine for the Ambonnay co-ops' own release. But their labor and prized fruit of their own land gets separate treatment – to create a unique cuvee that is specially for the Hulin family.

The “Tradition” cuvee is based mostly on pinot noir, with a smaller portion of chardonnay and meunier. Aromas of sappy and flowering herbs take flight from the moment the wine bubbles up – a veritable garden of flowering sage, marjoram, and thyme. As the mousse settles, golden pears and lightly oxidized aromas give an initial warmth and depth to the wine, immediately brightened by flavors of lemon and Mirabelle plums, with a coppery, river rock minerality. Spiced apple and pear sensations round out the mouthfeel, with a warm, flinty smokiness that carries this into a long, balanced finish. The time in barrel lends this considerable depth not often found in Champagne under $40 – and the tell-tale signs of Ambonnay’s Grand Cru status grant this a pedigree worth pursuing. The overall style elevates the wine to something comparable at twice the price, and this is definitely a hidden gem that over-delivers. 

This was one of those random discoveries for us – a sample bottle, sent from an unfamiliar source that specializes in a different region entirely, alongside a series of other samples that didn’t make the cut. This cuvee nevertheless stood out immediately – leaving us floored and titillating with excitement. We got all that we could – even though we know next to nothing about the producer, or the exact, chalky limestone plots in Ambonnay that produce this surprising elixir. But the quality was beyond any doubt, and once we locked in such an exceptional price – we just knew we had to share it with you all! These are sure to move quickly, and shipping is included on three or more! Make your order promptly…you’ll be forever grateful that you did!