A textbook blanc de blancs in a relatively opulent style, with ample grilled nut, brioche and spice character alongside classic flavors of poached apricot, kumquat, oyster shell and lemon blossom. This rich profile is well-defined by racy acidity, sleek and well-cut, driving the long, lacy finish. A beauty. Drink now through 2035. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 4,500 cases made, 185 cases imported.

This Champagne made with 100% Chardonnay sourced from four grand cru villages (Cramant, Avize, Oger and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger) and from one 1er Cru village, Vertus. Disgorged in Novembre 2019 after spending 13 years on its lees, the 2006 Blanc des Millénaires has elegant notes of apricot, pineapple, exotic fruit including mango, as well as white flowers. The palate is medium-bodied, delicate and yet opulent at the same time. The texture is crystalline and very pure. Good vivacity too thanks to ripe acidity. The finish is long and expansive. Very long ageing potential (10-15 years).

Rippling with ripe stone-fruit and citrus aromas, plus notes of buttered toast and chalk, this is both powerful and mouthwatering, with enough structure to carry its imposing stature. The lemony finish is at once creamy and saline. A Blanc de Blancs from 5 top Crus in the Côte des Blancs. Drink now.

Recently disgorged with seven grams per liter dosage, the 2006 Brut Blanc de Blancs Blanc des Millénaires is expressive and charming, in keeping with the sunny, demonstrative style of the vintage. Offering up aromas of toasted brioche, honeycomb, yellow apples and preserved citrus, it's full-bodied, fleshy and textural, with a rich core of fruit, ripe acids and an attractive pinpoint mousse. It's already drinking well, and I'd be inclined to approach it sooner than the more tightly wound 2004 rendition.

The 2006 Blanc des Millenaires is a rich, punchy Champagne that captures all of the radiant intensity of this warm year. Apricot, lemon confit and tropical accents bring out the more extroverted side of Chardonnay. Warm, toasty brioche notes add to its considerable appeal. This is a terrific showing. Best of all, the 2006 will drink well right out of the gate.

This is the last vintage of Chas Heidsieck to be sold in the old standard bottle shape rather than the snazzy new one introduced in 2007. Made by Thierry Roset to the usual recipe: four grands crus from the Côte des Blancs plus Vertus – 20% each. 'The easiest wine to make', according to Cyril Brun, who sees the 2006 as a complete contrast to the austere 2004.