Truly, I’d opt for a bottle of this over Krug every single time – and use the significant savings to buy even more delectable bubblies! That’s just how my brain works, and this really is such a unique and spectacular bottling! Only 83 cases were made and the fact that we were able to acquire twelve of those is a remarkable accomplishment worthy of song! 

Pierre Déthune and his wife Sophie run this classic Ambonnay estate – just as the previous generations have all the way back to 1610. Like each of his forebears, Pierre has created his own style of Champagne – rooted in tradition, yet ever-evolving – the one constant being the grassy lands of Ambonnay. This bottling is the perfect nod to that tradition – opting to secure each cork in place by hand, using a rough-spun twine in a method that predates the muselet (Champagne cage) that has dominated nearly every bottle of bubbly for the last hundred years. The twine is carefully cut by scissors, et voilà! Champagne perfection.

This cuvee is crafted from equal parts pinot noir and chardonnay – the very best plots from the family’s holdings throughout Ambonnay. The individual varieties are fermented in 205 liter Champagne barrels, undergoing malolactic fermentation as well before blending and bottling. Six plus years on the lees allows for additional development, and an Extra Brut level dosage of just 5 grams per liter allows for a pervasive freshness to temper the wine’s inherent richness. 

Powerfully rich, impressively intense, and playfully elegant, this Champagne is exceptional even in its ‘youth’ (we feel Champagne aging truly begins at dosage, though there is undoubtedly plenty of nuance created from the time in both barrel and on the lees)! The nose immediately bursts with scents of marzipan, toasted brioche, and brûléed apples. With time, a bright minerality breaks through – showcasing Ambonnay’s classic chalkiness, and added elements of lemons, white flowers, and Valencia oranges. The mouthfeel is lusciously creamy, with a stable and full mousse that holds up impressively – leading into flavors of dried cherries, poached pears, honeyed walnuts, oyster shells, nougat, and a finishing whisper of crushed mint. The wine refuses to leave – nearly a minute later and the warm, velvety sensation of sheer joy is still dancing across the tongue!

As the second oldest family in Ambonnay, and over 400 years of grape-growing history in the region… this nevertheless stands tall as an icon of the estate.  Comparisons to Krug don’t come lightly, but I’ll say again… this wine has the resume that would rival any producer in Champagne. This is far rarer, and for a vintage Grand Cru of this quality… a simply remarkable value! Only so much in the world, so do not miss out on this!