Maison Lonclas was founded by Bernard Lonclas in 1976, in the heart of Bassuet – a small village in the southeastern corner of the Côte de Blancs, not far from Aube and some 80 miles due east of Paris. The village is in a sort of bowl – surrounded by steep slopes whose precious chalk and limestone soils are perfect for growing chardonnay grapes. This noble variety for the region accounts for 85% of their holdings – the rest including 10% pinot meunier and 5% pinot noir. This crisp and zippy Blanc de Blancs is crafted from 100% chardonnay, of course, made from the estate’s oldest vines all within a few miles of the winery.

Bernard runs the estate alongside his daughter, Aurelie, with a small team that assists in every aspect of the business. Bernard has adapted new technology in many ways, from his rigorously clean stainless steel, thermo-regulated tanks, to his modern renditions of the traditional Champagne, or “Coquard," presses. Yet, in one key way, he is very old-school: riddling. This slow and cautious relocation of the sediment that builds during this wine’s 60 months on the lees in bottle is carried out entirely by hand, and exclusively by Bernard – taking several hours every morning throughout the year to precisely turn these bottles. Each bottle takes four weeks of riddling before it can be disgorged (the mechanized Gyropalette accomplishes this in about a week for an entire palette’s worth of bottles).

The results are indisputable: this is as pristine and complex of a Blanc de Blancs as you’re likely to find from any of the Grand Crus in the Côte des Blancs. A pale, flaxen gold, the wine pours with a steady and exuberant mousse that reveals aromas of honeysuckle, Bartlett pears, green apples, and white nectarines, then chalk, and mint, with a flourish of lemon peel. The flavors are crisp, and tart – with accents of lemons, clementines, shaved almonds, lemongrass, and peaches. Taut and racy throughout – with a linear and mineral-driven purity and freshness – this is just the perfect oyster-on-half-shell or caviar complement (and that just became my plan for the weekend). Head out to the coast, grab some bivalves, and shuck and sip the day away until the sun goes down!