Just south of Epernay, in the limestone hills of the Côte des Blancs, lies the sloping mosaic of plots that make up Le Mesnil. Domaine André Robert’s “gardens” of Mesnil grow on pure chalk stone, the clean and vibrant terroir that is the very heart of Le Mesnil. The fourth generation of the Robert family, Bertrand, still assists alongside his wife, Colette, but it is his daughter, Clare, and her husband, Jean-Baptiste Denizart, who are taking this great estate to unimaginable new heights. Clare came on in 2013, with Jean-Baptiste following soon after. Together they have struck an admirable balance – between carrying on the traditions of her great-great-grandfather, Henri (who began farming the land just after World War I), and the modern farming and winemaking advances available today. 

Though far removed from the winery's first home in the hand-carved chalk cellars forged by the Robert’s forebears, there is something in these wines that almost magically connects each sip to the family’s history – as if you can taste a piece of their home even from thousands of miles away. The Roberts’ greatness lies in a style guided by their generations of careful farming and the modern stewards’ thoughtful assemblage – all in homage to this land of Le Mesnil that has shaped them as a voice of the soil itself.

For this cuvee, the house ages and vinifies their vin clairs in barrel – carefully harvested by plot, and vinified separately in small batches to develop over a period of around 10 months. For this release of Les Jardins du Mesnil, the 2018 vintage base is just two parcels, making up about 60% of the total blend. 100% chardonnay, of course, but with an incredible 40% of reserve wine from the 2013 vintage. This is a somewhat unique occurrence – as typically one would find a sort of solera-style reserve, or perhaps an addition of the past couple of vintages as the reserve material – but to leapfrog back all the way to 2013 (a fantastic vintage revered for its piercing acidity and ageability…) shows a level of experimentation and consideration of a whole new degree. 

And, my word, does it ever work! Zero dosage, no malolactic fermentation, yet incredibly textured and creamy, perfumed and zippy, with golden apples, Valencia oranges, and nutty, toasted almond slivers. A piquant, pickled ginger spiciness lingers on the finish, and an onrush of salty ocean air brings this all to a pleasing close. It is simply brilliant – layered with the integrated maturity of the 2013 reserve wine, which matches elegantly with the power, depth, and freshness of the 2018 harvest. This is a certified stunner that immediately became a staff favorite when we popped a bottle. Worthy of collection, undoubtedly, and a singular bottle that I’d put against anything in this price range! Clearly – with its 99 pt. score – the critics agree!