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Champagne André Robert Blanc de Blancs Les Jardins du Mesnil Brut Nature Grand Cru NV Wine - Last Bottle

Champagne André Robert Blanc de Blancs Les Jardins du Mesnil Brut Nature Grand Cru NV

Most Champagne aficionados agree…chardonnay from Le Mesnil sur Oger is one of the purest expressions to be found anywhere in the world. This Brut Nature may be one of our favorite proofs…



Flavor Profile: Golden apples, Valencia oranges, toasted almond slivers, pickled ginger, and salty ocean air
Time on Lees: 43 months
Dosage: 0 g/L

Why We Love It...

Just south of Epernay, in the limestone hills of the Côte des Blancs, lies the sloping mosaic of plots that make up Le Mesnil. For rising star producer, André Robert, their “gardens” of Mesnil grow on pure chalk stone, the clean and vibrant terroir that is the very heart of Le Mesnil. This newest assemblage relies on the lieu dits of Les Musettes and Les Hauts d’Aillerand – prime Le Mesnil parcels that showcase everything I absolutely love about this Grand Cru – precision, power, and electric verve – all with a rigid backbone of elegant minerality. If you don’t love this…you don’t love Champagne.

The village of Le Mesnil sur Oger sits entirely upon east-facing slopes, thickly sheltered by forestland on the hills above – allowing chardonnay to slowly ripen, never sacrificing the elegant, high-toned aromatics or the piercing acidity for which these wines are so prized. 

The fourth generation of the Robert’s family, Bertrand, still assists alongside his wife, Colette, but it is his daughter, Clare, and her husband, Jean-Baptiste Denizart, who are taking this great estate to unimaginable new heights. Clare came on in 2013, with Jean-Baptiste following soon after. Together they have struck an admirable balance – between carrying on the traditions of her great-great-grandfather Henri (who began farming the land just after World War I), and the modern farming, and winemaking, advances available today. Though far removed from the wine's first home in the hand-carved chalk cellars forged by the Robert’s forebears, there is something in these wines that almost magically connects each sip to the family’s history – as if you can taste a piece of their home even from thousands of miles away. The Robert’s greatness lies in a style guided by their generations of careful farming and the modern stewards’ thoughtful assemblage – all in homage to this land of Le Mesnil that has shaped them as a voice of the soil itself.

Our visit there this past November was a revelation – elevating an already cherished producer to ever greater heights. We’re still pretty much in awe of everything they do…even tasting the vin clairs from barrel was simply spectacular! On average, this house ages and vinifies their vin clairs in barrel – carefully harvested by plot, and vinified separately in small batches to develop over a period of around 10 months. For this release of Les Jardins du Mesnil the 2018 vintage base is just two parcels, making up about 60% of the total blend. 100% chardonnay, of course, but with an incredible 40% of reserve wine from the 2013 vintage. This is a somewhat unique occurrence – as typically one would find a sort of solera-style reserve or perhaps an addition of the past couple of vintages as the reserve material – but to leapfrog back all the way to 2013 (a fantastic vintage revered for its piercing acidity and ageability…) that shows a level of experimentation and consideration on a whole other level. 

And, my word, does it ever work! Zero dosage, no malolactic fermentation, yet incredibly textured and creamy, perfumed and zippy, with golden apples, Valencia oranges, and nutty, toasted almond slivers. A piquant, pickled ginger spiciness lingers on the finish, and an onrush of salty ocean air brings this all to a pleasing close. It is simply brilliant – layered with the integrated maturity of the 2013 reserve wine, which matches elegantly with the power, depth, and freshness of the 2018 harvest. This is a certified stunner that immediately became a staff favorite when we popped a bottle earlier this week.

Without question, this is one of the most fantastically penetrating, intensely pleasing, and vinously beguiling Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs anywhere! If you’ve had any of these previous bottlings – you know what an impeccable wine this is – but this newest release simply soars! Worthy of collection, undoubtedly, and a singular bottle that I’ll put against anything in this price range! 

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Technical Details

Country: France
Region: Champange
Appellation: Côte des Blancs
Varietal: Chardonnay
Winemaker: Claire Robert and Jean-Baptiste Denizart
Oak: 100% Barrel Fermented
Alcohol: 12%
Pair it with: Salmon roe atop buttered French bread

About the Producer

The story of André Robert Champagne goes back five generations, rooted in the chalk-rich, grand cru soils of Le Mesnil sur Oger. Henri Robert was a pioneer in the village, organizing its first growers’ association. His son, the eponymous André, purchased the estate house under which a handcarved, 19th-century cellar now ages the family’s complex, barrel-aged wines. Bertrand Robert, his wife Colette and daughter, Claire, together tend sustainably some 35 acres of grand and premier cru terroir in the Côte des Blancs, a true grower-producer family dedicated to the elegant and expressive character of pure Mesnil Champagne.

Champagne André Robert Blanc de Blancs Les Jardins du Mesnil Brut Nature Grand Cru NV



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