While the wines produced under the Champagne André Diligent label have historically impressed and captivated their drinkers, the house has somehow remained an under-the-radar treasure in the broader wine world. In truth, I’m more than delighted to benefit from this hidden beauty, and somehow, I feel quite certain that you won’t mind a new house bubbly candidate either. This NV brut was simply exceptional – with an exuberance and vibrant crispness that can scarcely be contained.

Continuing in family tradition, today Joël and Patrick Diligent follow in the footsteps of several generations and are working both vehemently and diligently (I just had to…) in handing off their knowledge to their own sons, Thomas and Aurélien. The family owns 10 hectares in Buxeuil, in the center of the Côte des Bar in the southern Champagne region, though they have vineyards in the Champagne appellations of Polisy, Gyé-sur-Seine, Balnot-sur-Laignes, and Les Ricey, as well. Composed of Jurassic hillsides atop Kimmeridgian limestone, the rough and rustic terroir of the Côte des Bar benefits the 15- to 40-year-old vines that the Diligent family tends.

Véhémence, their non-vintage brut Champagne, is what they call “an emblematic style of the house since 1950.” Blended of 85% pinot noir and 15% chardonnay, the wine is pulled from three different vintages and aged for 36 months on the lees before disgorgement with a generous 10 grams per liter dosage. It holds it well and is as fresh and mineral as I’ve come to expect from this region, simply bursting with ripe character, without sacrificing a drop of its impeccable balance. The flavors are chock-full of citrus variations – including Meyer lemons, lemon meringue, orange peel, and orange blossoms – alongside brilliant orchard fruit notes of crisp apple, and a salty sea air element, with a framing accent of toasted brioche. This is primed to drink immediately and frequently – and at this sort of price, you’ll be pleased to do just that. For less than $35 a bottle, it’s one to stock up on for summer and drift through the heat of the days ahead with a perpetually filled glass of this securely in hand.