Casa Setaro Pietrafumante Caprettone Spumante Metodo Classico Brut 2021

An active volcano? An indigenous grape variety once on the verge of extinction? No, this isn’t some sci-fi thriller – just the background of a thrilling sparkling wine, grown on the lush slopes of Mount Vesuvius, in the little-known commune of Trecase. The nutrient-rich hillsides of continental Europe’s only active volcano have been tended by the Setaro family for generations, growing mostly native grapes, like Aglianico, Falanghina, Piedirosso, and today’s star, Caprettone. The grape was once nearly extinct, but thanks to Casa Setaro, it’s had a worthy revival and is no longer at risk of disappearing.

Massimo Setaro established the family estate in 2004, working alongside his wife, Mariarosaria, and cultivating around 12 hectares of vines, located about 200 to 250 meters above sea level. The grapes thrive in a terroir of nutrient-rich volcanic soils and lava rock, untouched by chemical herbicides or fertilizers, and imbued with seaside breezes that shape the signature terroir of their wines. Their cellar, carved into volcanic stone beneath the family home, combines temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks with amphorae and oak casks, allowing wines to express pure volcanic intensity and refreshing minerality. Casa Setaro champions centuries-old traditions – like propagation by layering – while applying modern organic and biodynamic methods.

Crafted of 100% indigenous Caprettone grapes, this 2021 Pietrafumante (roughly translating to “smoking stone” in reference to the volcanic soils on which the grapes grow) is made in the traditional Champagne method and is super delicious, complex, fresh, balanced, and dripping with intrigue. Fine bubbles and dynamic notes of cashew, quince, and cut apple slices waft through the air aromatically, as the palate introduces a laser beam of flavors: honeydew melon, mango lassi, and Meyer lemon, with gently floral and bready undertones. This is texturally linear and so precise, with a fine zip of acidity carrying you through the lengthy finish. It is an all-around thrilling wine – from its origins to the experience you have sipping it! Delicious with food, delightful on its own – be sure to grab at least a few to add another layer of interest at any number of meals or occasions!