Laurent Champs can do no wrong in our book. One of our absolute top Grower Champagne houses, with a consistent quality and unique style that sets them apart from so many others throughout Champagne – it’s impossible not to be wooed. Revered Champagne expert Peter Liem even said this: “Vilmart & Cie. is not only one of the greatest grower-estates in Champagne, but one of the finest Champagne producers of any type in the region.” And we think that’s putting it lightly!

A storied pedigree, a Premier Cru village, and a charming, fifth-generation Champenois, Laurent Champs as an individual at the helm couldn’t make for a better story, yet each vintage of Vilmart seems to tell an even more compelling story than the last. Vilmart was founded in 1890, specifically as a grower-producer – unlike other producers of the time, who were establishing themselves as negociants. Vilmart knew that the specific terroir its vineyards grew on in the Premier Cru village of Rilly-La-Montagne was something special. There are 11 hectares of vines that belong to Laurent, and they’re all farmed organically, because, as we know, great wine starts in a healthy vineyard. Vilmart transitioned to sustainable viticulture practices back in the ‘70s, really before it was even a glimmer in the rest of the region’s eye. That strict attention to quality is a thread that’s been woven through the brand since inception.

The Coeur de Cuvée Brut Premier 2015, translated to “Heart of the Blend,” is one of our favorite tete de cuvées ever, from a parcel of over 60-year-old vines on the estate. Its 80/20 chardonnay-pinot noir blend is a bit of an anomaly for Rilly, since most other growers are mostly planted to pinot meunier and pinot noir. This provides the wine with an age-worthy backbone complemented by just a touch of fruit-inspired roundness. The combination delivers a fun palatal texture that I just can’t get enough of – chiseled, bright acidity and minerality that make these powerful, voluptuous wines so perfectly balanced. The wine is fermented and aged in 228-liter barriques over an initial period of 10 months, before aging on the lees for a whopping 72 months. A dosage of 7 g/L amplifies the final result to something that borders on the sublime – and serves as the finishing touch to a masterpiece. 

There’s a mouth-filling texture to this cuvée that makes it a match to pretty much any food, and just as spectacular on its own. Initial aromas of toasted biscuits, lemon, orange marmalade, and honeysuckle draw you in, with accompanying flavors of bing cherries, lime leaf, lemon cream, golden apples, white nectarine, and a kiss of chervil. It deftly carries this autolytic leesy-ness throughout, with hints of unbaked sourdough boules that never seem to distract from the pure fruit sensations. The acidity is intensely bright – cutting through the richness at just the right moment to extend the finish almost exponentially. It’s taut and racy, with depth, complexity, and poise – this is simply all you could want in a vintage offering – a singular experience that is sure to only get more and more profound over the next several years. I can’t wait for you to try it. While you’re at it, just grab a few more bottles! You won’t regret it.