100% chardonnay from the chalky limestone soils of the Côte des Blancs and their home estate in the Grand Cru of Chouilly. The Champion family has grown grapes here since the 1800s, with a forebear, Andre Champion, standing as an early pioneer in the Grower Champagne movement when he declared his house back in 1929. He passed away young and unexpectedly, leaving his sixteen year old son, Roland, the challenges of running a growing Champagne house. He was counseled to sell his fruit – like his ancestors had – a safer, and more economical way to ensure his livelihood. But Roland felt up to the challenge, doubling down on his passion, and re-christening the estate in his own name. He expanded the family holdings, and created a legacy house that would pass to his son, and now, his grandchildren.

This full and heady style of Champagne is brightened and uplifted by a tiny dosage of four grams, with an integrated and rich complexity stemming from the 60+ months that the wine spends on the lees in bottle. Special Club Blanc de Blancs always stand out to me as exemplary case studies in terroir – and this shining example is no different. And yet, despite the obvious ties to the limestone and chalk of the Côte des Blancs’ Grand Crus – this wine has a flourish all its own – perfumed and nutty, where a linear minerality has been beaten and forged into an elegant spine that showcases other sensations without dominating on its own. 

On entry, these toasty aromas of hazelnuts, brown butter, and brioche set the stage for something opulent and powerfully rich, only to step into the background and allow a bounty of fruits and more to share the spotlight. Apricots, golden apples, cherries, plums, pickled ginger, lingonberries, orange blossoms, rose water – the core here is very pretty, and very elegant, with a soft and supple caress that lingers with a spice element of clove and peppercorn. Overall, the wine strikes me as possessing a sort of Chanel No. 5 kind of timelessness… never over the top, but always there, and able to infuse a sense of class into any setting. 

Needless to say – I am a fan. One of the better Champagnes I have tasted thus far in 2024 – and at an exceptional price for the overall class and quality of this great Champagne! Roland Champion has truly become one of my estates to seek out with this offering – and I recommend you follow suit! We can never get enough Special Club these days, but this is assuredly one worth collecting in as much quantity as you can justify!