Pierre Déthune is the latest in a long line of vintners going all the way back to 1610. Like each of his forebears, Pierre has created his own style of Champagne – rooted in tradition, yet ever-evolving – the one constant being the grassy lands of Ambonnay, one of 17 Grand Cru villages in Champagne. As of late, they’ve been busy with the final stages of their vineyards becoming ‘certified’ organic – even though they have farmed that way for years, and have been moving in that direction for over a decade plus. 

Princesse des Thunes is barrel aged, resulting in a “mature” style of Champagne that abounds with complexity – spicy, savory, and earthy tones, with the faintest whisper of oxidation adding even further depth. This is comparable in style to Krug, at a price tag nowhere near that $200+ mark!  There’s a dosage of 5 grams per liter to let the wine show its best flavors, and it aged for 36 months on the lees. If ever a $78 bottle of Champagne could be championed for its incredible value, this is that champion!

Pierre and Sophie Déthune have become known for their powerful yet delicate wines that over-deliver in quality and value with great frequency. This is my newest favorite of the lot – bar none. The pinot noir takes charge of the aromatics in this bottling, with an elegant nose of summer strawberries and raspberries, followed by floral notes of apple blossoms and cider spices. On the palate, the wine showcases red apples, with accents of cinnamon, nutmeg, and clove, followed by baked d’Anjou pears, crisp and fresh green apples, plus toasted brioche, with delicate herb notes of marjoram and thyme. It finishes with a bright and stony note – as wet slate and baked clay sensations guide you into a lush and creamy denouement.

We snapped up everything the importer could provide of this fresh bottling, and went back for a little more after the mad-frenzy of the last time we offered it. As usual with Déthune, it’s not enough, sadly, and any of you that enjoyed the previous bottle of this wine (or really, anything from their fantastic portfolio) are surely already loading up your carts! It’s what the royals would do too!