The brothers have proudly taken on the title of the “Vesselles who plough” – as in, painstakingly turning their soils to encourage deep, and lasting roots for their vines. Though not all too common, maintaining the vineyard in this traditional manner is ecologically sound and pollutes far less than herbicides, helping to balance variations in humidity. “Yesterday we were called old-fashioned, today we're avant-garde,” Didier has explained. Their method adds stress to the vines without damaging them, instead training the vines to grow stronger, healthier, and more hearty with time. The results of their efforts are wines crafted in classic Bouzy power, with unmatched depth, structure, and intensity. These are some rare and compelling Champagnes with some of the most powerful structures I’ve ever encountered, without the customary triple-digit price tag wines of this caliber often require.

Didier and Thierry practice block malolactic fermentation in their winemaking facilities to preserve the serene brightness and freshness that malic acid evokes. They actively pursue minerality, which is an abundant quality for Cote des Blancs wines but less apparent in this section of the Montagne de Reims, where powerful fruit backbones typically define the style of Bouzy. To highlight and preserve their individual lots, the brothers vinify each parcel’s fruit separately in thermoregulated stainless steel, helping identify each wine’s individual characters before blending. In the grand finale, they practice virtuous patience to allow it all to come together with 5 years aging on the lees – providing ample time for the citrine acidity and chalky minerality to integrate to perfection. With 80% pinot noir and 20% chardonnay, a slight dosage of 4 grams per liter helps to preserve those zippier elements in this blend.

The final product is something dripping with fresh golden apples, plus grated ginger, melty shortbread cookies, and loads of cinnamon, iron ore, and clove. As the mousse softens in the glass, additional notes of poached pear, lemon meringue, hazelnuts, and chipped flint develop for a warm and toasty experience in the mouth, accented with plenty of touches of ripeness and spice. This is a Champagne that persists – lengthening to finish bright, tart, and poised to utmost elegance – with suitable drinking power now and life to extend another several years. We’re always thrilled to have a Bouzy Vesselle bottling to plow into ourselves – especially one of this caliber and careful production! It’s true that this is rapidly becoming a Last Bubbles favorite! Let’s see if it becomes one of yours too. (*Hint, hint* it most definitely will!)