Champagne Victor Charlot Noir de Jais Brut NV

As the fifth generation of the Charlot family to pursue grape-growing in the land of Moussy, south of Epernay, Victor Charlot leads the way at the domaine today at just 34 years old. The young vintner has spent the great majority of his life honing the skills passed down from father to son for the past century. He tends to lean on a mixture of styles – both honoring traditional winemaking processes of the past while strategically integrating more contemporary ideologies. Always, he remains humbly in awe of what his ancestors forged before him, striving to maintain their legacy in all that he does.

At the same time, Victor has this inherent boldness – a natural charm that stems from organic confidence and contentment for life and his profession. When our Last Bubbles team visited the estate, Victor, alongside his wife and business partner, Charlotte, made us feel absolutely at home – despite language barriers amongst us – and even taught us how to disgorge a rare, extra-aged Blanc de Blancs. We spent the day drinking his fine portfolio of Champagnes (and most excellent ratafia) while sharing a few small bites prepared by Charlotte at their lovely new tasting room in the heart of Moussy.

This 100% Pinot Meunier “Noir de Jais” takes a Brut dosage to keep the flavor profile fresh and demonstrably bright. Punchy mineral and richly intense aromas of Golden Delicious apple, Mascarpone cheese, and slate announce a decadent entrance. It’s full-bodied and energetic across the palate with a long and zippy finish, with notes of lemon zest, expressive bergamot, and cloudberry (a cloud-shaped fruit that tastes like a mixture of blackberry, raspberry, and red currant) offering an exuberant depth. It’s all at once straightforward and extraordinary, and overall just a great effort that thrills us to no end. This is a no-brainer for those who appreciate off-the-radar, passionately produced grower Champagnes!